Episode #125: Kyoto on Points: What We Did, What We Loved & What I'd Do Differently

Kyoto on Points: What We Did, What We Loved & What I'd Do Differently

Hit play above to listen to the full episode, or keep reading for all the details from our three nights in Kyoto!

Before I dive in, I want to say this: one of my biggest mindset shifts around travel is moving away from "if I can't do it perfectly, I won't do it at all." Our Kyoto trip was a perfect example of doing it imperfectly, and it was still incredible. We were only there for three nights and almost three full days, and while I would have loved more time, I have zero regrets. Sometimes going on a trip is better than no trip at all. That abundance mindset made all the difference.

So let's get into everything, what we did, what I'd do differently, and everything you need to know if you're planning your own Kyoto trip.

Getting There: The Bullet Train from Tokyo

We took the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Kyoto, departing at 9:45 AM and arriving around 12:31 PM. I booked our tickets online through the Smart Ex app about two weeks before arrival, which was easy and straightforward.(Though i should add it does have some down time in the middle of the night in Japan's timezone)

My husband and I both had Suica cards loaded on our phones before we left, but our kids needed physical cards. When we arrived at Kyoto Station, we found a kiosk selling ICOCA cards Kyoto's version of the IC transit card, with a cute little penguin on them. In the moment, I couldn't figure out how to get my daughter set up on a child's card (which would have been cheaper), so we just got her a regular adult card too. If you have the time and energy to figure that out ahead of arrival, it's worth it. Good news: the ICOCA cards we got in Kyoto worked in Tokyo too.

Where We Stayed: Hyatt Place Kyoto on Points

We stayed at the Hyatt Place Kyoto using free night certificates and points, and it was such a win. Hyatt Places and Hyatt Houses in Japan are noticeably nicer than what you'd typically find in the US, and the location could not have been more perfect. We walked up from the subway station and my daughter spotted it immediately: it was literally right next door.

Because the rooms at this property only hold two to three people, we booked two rooms, a king and a two-twin, and while we weren't able to get connecting rooms (book early and email ahead if this matters to you), our rooms were right across the hall from each other. With two bathrooms and a family that was out exploring all day, it worked beautifully.

Pro tip: If you have Hyatt Globalist status or add a Guest of Honor award, breakfast is included. We didn't have that for this stay since we used free nights and points, but honestly? My daughter was thrilled about Seven-Eleven breakfasts, so no complaints there.

Day One: Nishiki Market, Samurai Ninja Museum & Nijo Castle at Night

After checking in and dropping our bags, we walked about 15 minutes down to Nishiki Market. This covered market is lined with food stalls and little shops, and I thought it was great. We tried Wagyu beef (amazing), gyoza, mochi with strawberries, homemade donuts, and a green tea boba drink. We peeked in some shops and gave ourselves about an hour to an hour and a half to walk through before heading to our next stop. A few notes: it's cash only, and the lines at some of the sushi spots can get long, so plan accordingly.

From there, we had a 3:30 PM appointment at the Samurai Ninja Museum. A little tip: there are actually two addresses one where the ninja experience starts if you choose to add this, and one for the samurai museum itself, so double-check which address you need first. The ninja experience came first, and it was genuinely so fun. You learn to throw stars, blow darts, and get a taste of ninja and samurai culture. Then it's a short 10-minute walk to the samurai museum for a guided tour. My son had just covered Japan in seventh-grade social studies, so it was a really cool way to bring those lessons to life.

That evening, we walked about 10–15 minutes from our hotel to the Sakura Light Festival at Nijo Castle. This is a seasonal event that happens during cherry blossom season, and I stumbled upon it while planning, so glad I did. The castle grounds were completely illuminated, the cherry blossom trees were lit up and in full bloom, and there was a little outdoor market and an optional evening performance (we bought tickets for it very fun, very over the top, totally worth it). We also got to go inside the castle and walk the famous chirping floors, which were designed to alert residents of intruders. We were there the first weekend in April and were so lucky to catch the blossoms at their peak.

Day Two: Fushimi Inari, the Golden Pavilion & Seven-Eleven Breakfast

I originally planned to wake up early and hit the bamboo forest first thing, but I made a pivot: I decided to prioritize Fushimi Inari in the morning and let go of the idea that we needed to be there before anyone else. For our family, rest mattered more than racing the crowds.

My daughter and I are early risers anyway, so we slipped out for a Seven-Eleven breakfast run while the boys slept in a little. Here's what we loved: the smoothie machines (such a hit), the hard boiled eggs, the whipped cream fruit sandwich with mixed fruit (we were bummed they were out of the strawberry version, but the mandarin, pineapple, and strawberry combo was still really good), and the prepackaged pancakes, we'd skip we all agreed those were a little too sweet. I'd skip those next time and grab a protein bar instead. The egg salad sandwich was okay; the BLT was more my speed. We grabbed smoothies for the boys too and were out the door by around 8:30 AM.

Fushimi Inari — the iconic shrine with thousands of red torii gates ended up being one of the most meaningful experiences of the whole trip for me. It's free to visit, and I cannot recommend the VoiceMap audio walking tour enough. We had one account on two phones, two sets of AirPods split between the four of us, and it completely transformed the experience. The app tracks your location and narrates as you move through the gates it shares history, prompts you to pause and look around, and gives you so much more context than just walking through on your own.

There's also supposedly a secret bamboo grove along the path. I'd read about it ahead of time, but we didn't manage to find it on the way up. On the way down, we tried a few different paths and did come across some bamboo, so I felt satisfied but if finding it is important to you, look for the turn on the way up, not on the way down.

We didn't do the full loop to the very top, but we walked far enough that the crowds thinned out significantly. There's a great rest spot with little shops and soft serve ice cream partway up, stop there, take a breath, and enjoy it.

In the evening, we took a taxi to the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji). You really only need about an hour here, it's a beautiful, peaceful loop through the grounds, and the pavilion itself is stunning. Entry was about 500–1,000 yen per person. There was a VoiceMap tour available here too, though my kids were a little over the audio tours at that point my husband and I listened and found it interesting. Taxis back from the Golden Pavilion were easy to grab from the taxi line.

For dinner, we kept it simple and found a tiny restaurant just a couple of minutes from our hotel, two tables, what looked like a husband and wife running it together. The food was delicious and it felt like such a genuine Kyoto experience.

ATM note: I learned on this trip that the Seven-Eleven ATMs (near subway lines or inside any 7-Eleven) work with MasterCard debit cards. When I tried an ATM near Fushimi Inari, it only accepted Visa so keep that in mind if you're carrying a MasterCard Debit cars

Day Three: Nara, Ramen Row & the Kimono Tea Ceremony

We caught the express train to Nara at 9:00 AM — I specifically wanted the express because it takes about 45–50 minutes versus an hour and 20 on a regular train, and the express only runs about once an hour. Worth planning around.

Nara Park ended up being both of my kids' favorites from the entire Japan trip for totally different reasons. My daughter loved feeding the deer. My son loved seeing the Great Buddha inside Todai-ji Temple. Both are absolutely worth seeing.

A word on the deer: I had seen videos and thought they'd be a little calmer. They are not. The trick is to buy the oat cookies, move away from the vendor, get to a calmer area, and then feed them, but once they spot the cookies, you may find yourself surrounded by five to ten deer who are headbutting and nibbling at you. It's funny in hindsight. Just be ready to hand those cookies over quickly and back away gracefully.

We spent about two and a half to three hours in Nara before heading back. I would have loved to visit the Nara Visitor Center (I've heard it's amazing, especially with kids) and honestly could have spent a full extra day there. But we had a train to catch.

On the way home, we took a regular train back to Kyoto Station instead of the express (the express requires reserved seat tickets beyond your IC card tap-in, we didn't have those). The ride back gave me time to Google what to eat at Kyoto Station. That's when I found Ramen Row a whole hallway of ramen restaurants on the 10th floor of Kyoto Station. It's a little tricky to find: take the escalators up through the main shopping area and look for the door off to the side. I got the chicken ramen and it was so good. Gyoza too. Highly recommend.

That evening, we took an Uber to the Gion district for our kimono fitting and tea ceremony at Camellia Flower Tea House, booked through Viator. My daughter and I both did the kimono add-on (my husband and son passed), and I'm so glad we did. The fitting and hair styling take about an hour, and then you have time to walk around the Gion district in your kimono before your tea time, or after up until 5pm. It's beautiful there the pagoda, the lantern-lit streets, the old wooden storefronts and shops.

A few things I'd do differently: book as early as possible this sells out. The kimono add-on won't show up automatically on Viator, but plan for one hour before your tea time. If I were to do this again, I'd either book a morning tea time so we had the whole day in Gion, or I'd tell them I'm arriving two hours before my tea time to have more time to walk around without feeling rushed.

I'm so glad I didn't book a dinner reservation for that evening, it would have felt really stressful. Instead, after the tea ceremony we walked home through the Gion district at night following the VoiceMap path. It took us through the lantern-lit streets, past a shrine, through what felt like a completely different, more lit-up side of Kyoto. Eventually we called an Uber back to the hotel, and had a minor Uber adventure involving an unnecessarily long route. (Uber did refund the price difference when I reached out, so there's that.)

We'd had a big ramen lunch, so that carried us through the evening, and we spent the rest of the night packing up for Tokyo.

What I'd Do Differently

• I would have loved one more night in Kyoto, not necessarily to do more, just to have a little more breathing room each day
• I'd split Nara and the tea ceremony into two separate days so neither felt rushed
• I'd look for the secret bamboo grove at Fushimi Inari on the way up
• I'd arrive earlier for the kimono fitting to have more time in Gion before the tea ceremony
• I'd track down the Nara Visitor Center, I've heard it's a must with kids

What I'd Do Again in a Heartbeat

• The VoiceMap tour at Fushimi Inari — 100% worth it, every time
• The Sakura Light Festival at Nijo Castle — if you're visiting during cherry blossom season
• Nara — deer, Great Buddha, beautiful scenery everyone loved it
• Ramen Row at Kyoto Station — Loved, and farily easy in transit
• The kimono and tea ceremony at Camellia Flower Tea House — a memory my daughter will have forever
• Staying at the Hyatt Place Kyoto on points — the location and service were great.  Plus I forgot to mention the free coffee machine in the lobby for cappuccinos. 

If this post has you dreaming about Japan, I hope it gives you the nudge to figure it out even if you can't do it perfectly, even if you can't stay as long as you'd like. Do it imperfectly. Make it work for you. We loved every minute of Kyoto.

Tune in next week when I'm sharing all about our last two nights in Tokyo,  and wrapping up this whirlwind, wonderful trip!

Have questions about our Kyoto itinerary or booking on points? Reach out on Instagram or Facebook

Reach out on Instagram @dorothymcgatlin or find me on Facebook Dorothy McGatlin  I'm happy to help point you in the right direction!

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